Corn Reborn

Three Sisters Nixtamal brings back old-school tortilla-making STORY BY MATTIE JOHN BAMMAN PHOTOS BY NASHCO "What's done in here is how it's been done for thousands of years," says Pedro Ferbel-Azcárate, co-owner of the Portland-based artisan tortilla and masa company, Three Sisters Nixtamal. Standing over a huge vat of organic heirloom corn submerged in water at the Three Sisters Nixtamal facility in Southeast Portland, he's making corn tortillas the old-fashioned way — the really old-fashioned way. Three Sisters Nixtamal makes its tortillas using the crucial nixtamalization process, which gives the tortillas their heady heirloom corn flavor. Without it, you end up with the rather flavorless corn disks proliferating on grocery shelves. It's the difference between a beer and a microbrew, grocery-store white bread and...

Firebreather

"When I was pregnant, I wanted the spiciest foods ever," says Sarah Marshall, who co-founded Marshall's Haute Sauce, a line of hot sauces made with seasonal ingredients and signature recipes, with her husband, Dirk, in 2011. She's not kidding; when pressed, Sarah admits that, nothing, and she means nothing, was hot enough....

Drink Chocolate

When I emailed Aaron Koch about writing an article on his instant drinking chocolate company, Treehouse Chocolate, he responded, "Do you want to come see the smallest chocolate factory in the world?" This was the first surprise. There would be more....

Carrying the Torch

It’s 1963. You’re celebrating your anniversary at a nice restaurant. Your wife’s silk dress glimmers against the velvet banquette, and candlelight throws warm light on the coiffure that only a few hours ago absorbed half a spray can of Aqua Net. The remnants of your clams casino and dry martinis, served club-style, of course, have been whisked away....

The Better Noodle

The co-founder of the Umi Organic noodle company, Lola Milholland started experimenting with noodles at age 23, after living in Japan during college. Wanting to improve, she took a class from Dr. Gary Hou at Portland's Wheat Marketing Center. "The class cost $1,000, which I couldn’t afford, so I snuck in as a journalist," she says....

My Favorite Mistake

Park Kitchen, along the Pearl District’s historic tree-lined green belt, is a landmark destination for its seasonal American cuisine. For chef owner Scott Dolich and his team, it is a finely-tuned culinary workshop....

Who Needs Cows?

Walking down the sidewalk in inner southeast Portland, you may glance through a window and suddenly find yourself face to face with men and women in hairnets, white aprons, and rubber boots wielding hundreds of pounds of freshly made cheese....

Pickling Portland

Founded in 2011, Choi's Kimchi Company makes its kimchis using a generations-old family recipe by founder Chong Choi and her son, Matt. "The earliest memory my mom always shares," says Matt, "is the gimjang winter kimchi harvest in Korea...

Plates of World Adventures

"My food is like my brain, my mutt mind," says Chef Katy Millard of Coquine. A glance at Coquine's menu shows a smattering of cultures, from the browned butter dashi served with Romano beans to the tomato-horseradish-piri piri-vodka sauce, spicing Katy's take on shrimp and grits....

Bite into Bitters

Are you perhaps healthily obsessed with craft cocktails? Do you wish you could whip them up without finding and buying all manner of esoteric ingredients and liqueurs?...